The Bolshie Vyazemy estate in the Moscow region is one of the most charming and visited Pushkin places. It is part of the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve. In, located five km from Bolshiye Vyazya, the poet spent six summer seasons from 1804 to 1810. These two places became a symbol of rural Russia for Pushkin, reflected in many works, including the poem “Eugene Onegin.”

The Bolshie Vyazemy estate, a beautiful palace and park ensemble of the 17th-18th centuries, is located on the banks of the Vyazemka River, 54 km west of Moscow. On the territory of the estate there are the Golitsyn Palace with several wings, the Transfiguration Cathedral, the original belfry, an ancient dam and other attractions. A well-groomed park and picturesque surrounding forests are combined in Bolshie Vyazemy with many historical and cultural monuments.

History of the estate

Bolshiye Vyazemy was mentioned in the chronicles of the early 16th century as a settlement on the Great Smolensk Road. In 1585, they were granted by Emperor Ivan the Terrible to his brother-in-law Boris Godunov, who turned his possession into a small fortress. In just one year, he built a wooden tower with outbuildings and the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, a fortress wall, and a dam. These structures, created by the architects of Boris Godunov, have survived to this day.

In troubled times at the beginning of the 17th century, the estate on short time became the country residence of Tsar False Dmitry I and his wife Marina Mnishek. IN late XVII century, he gave Bolshiye Vyazemy to his comrade-in-arms in the struggle for power - Prince Boris Golitsyn. In 1784, his great-grandson, Nikolai Golitsyn, built the palace anew, and in this form the main building has survived to this day.

During that time, commander Mikhail Kutuzov stayed in Vyazemy, and after him Emperor Napoleon. IN different times Many famous people have visited here outstanding people. Among them are Emperor Paul I, writers N. Gogol, V. Bryusov, L. Tolstoy, A. Akhmatova and traveler N. Przhevalsky. The most important circumstance for the museum is that it is closely connected with the name of the poet A. Pusch kina. Not far from Vyazem, the poet grew up, visited the local temple and stayed with the Golitsyns in this estate. At the local cemetery there is the grave of his deceased six-year-old brother Nikolai.

The estate remained the property of the Golitsyn family until 1917. In the years Soviet power the house was decaying and falling into disrepair. Only in 1980 did the creation of a small museum begin in the estate, and in 1994 Bolshie Vyazemy was declared a state museum and restoration work began.

Monuments

The entire complex of monuments of the estate-museum is interesting, but the greatest interest of visitors is the cathedral with a belfry and a mansion with two wings. The rooms of the mansion are beautifully decorated with furniture and household items late XIX- the beginning of the 20th century, collected for the museum in similar noble estates. The interiors of the Golitsyn Palace masterfully recreated the atmosphere of Pushkin’s times: residential and state rooms - the way the poet could have seen them in his youth and beyond late age when visiting home.

The main dining room is the same one in which dinner was served to Emperor Paul I, who was staying here, and perhaps to an uninvited guest. The library temporarily served as headquarters for the Russian army. The Masonic Hall contains portraits of high-ranking members of the lodge and mosaic symbols of the Freemasons organization. In the flirtatious ladies' room, everything is as if under Natalya Petrovna Golitsina, who became the prototype of the heroine of the famous Pushkin " Queen of Spades" The house itself, well known to the poet, became for him the prototype of the rural estate of Eugene Onegin, next to which was the more modest refuge of the Larins - Zakharovo.

On the adjacent buildings, alleys, walking paths and playgrounds there are many memorial obelisks dedicated to famous people And significant dates XVI - XX centuries. The park and pond give an idea of ​​the art of the ancient landscape masters. The museum hosts permanent job on the restoration of the premises of the estate services and the equestrian yard, as well as the organization of new thematic exhibitions.

An interesting area of ​​activity of the State Historical and Literary Museum of the A.S. Pushkin Reserve was holiday events, dedicated to Pushkin and historical dates, regular " Musical evenings in a Russian estate”, held in the fireplace room. Children's center Vyazema estate invites young listeners and spectators for thematic lessons, concerts, games and festivals.

The first mention of Vyazemy is contained in one of the letters of grant, dated June 5, 1526. On the large Mozhaisk road there was a Yamsk station, the so-called “Ostanoshny Yam on Vyazema”. Vyazyomy was the penultimate station before Moscow (the next one was to Dorogomilovo) and is repeatedly mentioned in business correspondence of that time, dedicated to the arrival of foreign ambassadors. The historian Zabelin explained this etymology as “a union, a connection of one path with another.”

After the accession of Mikhail Romanov, the village of Bolshiye Vyazyomy was assigned to the palace department, magnificent royal feasts were held here, and hunting was done in the surrounding forests.

At the end of the 16th century, Vyazemy became the patrimonial village of first the boyar and then Tsar Boris Godunov. By that time it was a crowded town with three churches, a monastery, numerous services, a marketplace, and a camp on the main road.

After the death of Boris Godunov, False Dmitry I apparently became the owner of Vyaz. For the new “Tsar,” Godunov’s estate served as a place of entertainment and hunting. He staged “funny fights” here.

In 1606, according to legend, Marina Mnishek stayed here for several days on her way to Moscow. Immediately after his departure, a fire broke out in Vyazemy, turning 30 households to ashes.

According to the scribe books of 1631-1633. in Vyazemy there remains a church place for St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, a church place for St. John the Evangelist, and a garden place. There were 40 peasant and 16 bobyl households in the village. There was a mill on Vyazyomka. There was also a market here, which was mentioned in subsequent years.

By a personal decree of Tsars Ivan and Peter Alekseevich dated March 25, 1694, the village was granted from the Prikaz Grand Palace into the patrimonial possession of Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, tutor of Peter I. Bolshiye Vyazemy belonged to this branch of the Golitsyn princes for more than 200 years.

After the death of Boris Alekseevich, Vyazema passed to his grandson Mikhail Vasilyevich. In 1748, the next owner of Vyaz was his widow Evdokia Mikhailovna, née Princess Shcherbatova, sister of the famous historian M. M. Shcherbatov. In the 1760s she made a division of land among the children. Vyazyomy went to three brothers - Nikolai, Alexander and Mikhail.

After the “amicable division”, Nikolai Mikhailovich became the sole owner of Vyaz. In 1758-1788. he was the district Zvenigorod leader of the nobility, and after retiring, he settled in Vyazemy. In the “Economic Notes” its ownership is described as follows: “The village is on both sides of the Mozhaisk high road and the Vyazemka river, a stone church on two floors, at the top is the Transfiguration of the Lord, at the bottom - St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, a wooden manor house, with two regular gardens with fruitful trees, a wooden cloth factory, a horse stud, two flour mills, one has a stone dam with three gates , the other is about one delivery, there are 30 households in the village.” In 1784 a palace was built in the style French classicism, there is a small regular park. By the end of the 18th century, there were 29 households and 312 residents in Bolshie Vyazemy, and 32 households and 364 residents in Malye Vyazemy. The peasants were on quitrent, some were engaged in carpentry, cart work and carriage in Moscow.

In a letter addressed to Alexander I, I.M. Golitsyn asked to transfer the estate to his cousin, Prince B.V. Golitsyn, who became the new owner of Vyaz. After Patriotic War In 1812, the estate passed to Boris’s brother, Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn, the future governor-general of Moscow.

The last owner of Vyaz was Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn. In 1908, he set up a holiday village on his lands, for which he allocated part of the land “cut off” in the 1870s by the railroad. The territory of the village was cut through by 13 avenues, driveways and highways with street lighting.

In January 1918, the estate was transferred to the jurisdiction of the Perkhushkovsky volost Council of Deputies. In 1919, a state farm was organized in Vyazemy, and a Home for Street Children was located in the manor house. After its liquidation, a sanatorium named after him was located in the estate. Trout, later renamed into a rest house. According to the 1926 census, there were 223 farms and 1,098 residents in Bolshie Vyazemy. In (1941 - 42, a front-line hospital was located in the estate. At the end of the 1950s, the Zootechnical Institute of Horse Breeding named after S. M. Budyonny was located in the estate, there were stables, a hippodrome, then the estate was leased to the All-Russian Research Institute of Phytopathology of the State Agricultural Industry of the USSR, the adjacent fields and landscapes also went to him.

In 2001, a decision was made to unite the village of Bolshie Vyazemy and the village of Gorodok-17 into a single settlement and transform it into the working village of Bolshie Vyazemy. Until 2004 The village of Bolshie Vyazemy was the center of the Bolshevyazemsky rural district of the Odintsovo district of the Moscow region. In 2005, the law of the Moscow region populated areas The Bolshevyazemsky rural district was united into the rural settlement of Bolshie Vyazemy.

On the eastern shore of the Golitsyn Pond is the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin, which unites two historical estates - Zakharovo and Bolshie Vyazemy (organized in 1987). The Bolshie Vyazyomy estate, an outstanding architectural and landscape complex of the 18th-18th centuries, is the main and most significant part of the reserve’s museum. The estate complex is located on the high right bank of the dammed Vyazemka River. The architectural part of the complex includes the Transfiguration (Trinity) Church with a belfry of the 16th century, a clergy house (19th century), a fragment stone bridge across the river Vyazyomka (1824), manor house-palace of the Golitsyn princes (XVIII century).

On one of the nice days autumn days, we went to Bolshie Vyazemy to look at the majestic Transfiguration Church, the furnishings of the manor house, the stable building and the landscapes surrounding it all. The origin of the word “Vyazyomy” is not precisely established. There are two main theories. According to the first, the word comes from the Slavic “viscous”, perhaps this is due to the viscous banks of the river flowing through the territory of the estate, which bears the name Bolshaya Vyazemka, similar to the estate. Another theory attributes the word “vyazema” to Finno-Ugric roots, characteristic of the hydronymy of the Russian North (the rivers Kama, Lakshma, Lekshma, Padma).

Monument to A.S. Pushkin. 1999
sculptor Yu.S. Dines, architect A.V. Klimochkin.

Manor park. Autumn.

Back in 1585, Tsar Fyodor Ioannovich granted Bolshiye Vyazemy as the patrimony of Boris Godunov, and from the early 90s of the 16th century, Boris Godunov began large-scale construction in his new possession. At this time, a wooden palace, a boyar's house, numerous services, and orchards were built on the estate. By the end of the sixteenth century, a five-domed temple in the name of the Transfiguration of the Lord with a belfry was built on the estate.

The entire complex of manor buildings was surrounded by a wooden wall with five towers. Additionally, the walls were reinforced with a moat. Thus, by the end of the 16th century, the entire complex was a well-defended, powerful fortress. The defensive structures of the estate have not survived to this day, which is understandable; the need for them disappeared a long time ago.

Spaso-Preobrazhenskaya Church in the village of Bolshie Vyazemy

During the Time of Troubles, Bolshiye Vyazemy became the residence of False Dmitry - his country palace was here, and here, on the way to her fiancé in the spring of 1606, Marina Mnishek stopped with her retinue of many thousands. After her departure, a terrible fire broke out on the estate, destroying more than half of the village. In one of the fires of the Time of Troubles, the wooden palace of Boris Godunov also burned down.

Clergyman's house

Parochial school. The building is modern.

Nizhny Golitsynsky pond, on the Bolshaya Vyazemka River. Also known as the Gosudarev Pond.

After Mikhail Fedorovich came to the kingdom, in 1618 the Vyazemys were assigned to the palace department. And in 1694, Peter the Great granted the estate to Prince Boris Golitsyn, “for his salvation during the Streltsy revolt.” Despite the fact that the prince visited here rarely, considering Dubrovitsy his main estate, the prince made a lot of efforts to revive Big Elms. He restored the ruined Trinity Church, reconsecrated the Church of the Transfiguration, and rebuilt the palace. According to the diaries of Peter the Great, the emperor visited Bolshie Vyazemy while passing through in 1701 and 1705. manor house in Bolshiye Vyazemy was built on May 1, 1784 by the great-grandson of Prince Boris Golitsyn, retired Colonel Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn. The date of construction is indicated by the bas-relief on the pediment of the house.

Next there will be many pictures of the interior decoration of the manor house, which is probably more correctly called a villa.

The War of 1812 did not cause much damage to the estate. After the Battle of Borodino, on the way to Moscow, the Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Army, Mikhail Illarionovich Kutuzov, stopped in Bolshie Vyazemy. And a few hours after his departure, Emperor Napoleon arrived at the estate. The Drakun and infantry corps were stationed in Golitsyn's palace. In memory of those days, a memorial sign was erected on the territory of the estate in honor of the stopping of two armies in the Patriotic War of 1812.

A sign in memory of the stop of two armies in Vyazemy during the Patriotic War of 1812.

In 1882, a new owner appeared on the estate - the son of His Serene Highness Prince Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn. With his appearance, the estate returned to its former amenities. In 1908, the new owner established a holiday village in the vicinity of the estate, for which a part of the land was allocated, separated by a railway. Over time, the current city of Golitsyno was formed on the site of the village. Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn became the last owner of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.
The changes that 1917 brought to Russia did not bypass the Golitsyn estate.

We go up to the second floor. There are many more pictures of the interior of the manor house.

In the fall of 1918 and spring of 1919, more than 60 items of cultural and historical value were taken from the estate to the National Museum Fund, among which was an engraving depicting the family tree of the Golitsyn princes. The family jewels of the Golitsyn family were later transferred to the Armory Chamber. Was distributed to libraries unique collection books, more than 30 thousand volumes, collected by Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn. The estate was used as a colony for homeless people, then as a sanatorium for old Bolsheviks, a school for pilots and paratroopers, a tank school, and an evacuation hospital. By the way, during the First World War, there was also an infirmary with 50 beds.

Former stable. Currently time goes by its restoration.

After the hospital was closed, the educational zootechnical institute of horse breeding was located on the territory of the estate, which was personally supervised by Semyon Mikhailovich Budyonny, who visited the estate several times. In 1952, he laid the first stone in the foundation of the new building of the institute.

School of Arts, formerly the building of the Institute of Horse Breeding.

Not far from Bolshiye Vyazya is the Zakharovo estate, the former estate of the grandmother of the great Russian poet Maria Alekseevna Hannibal. Here, in his grandmother’s estate near Moscow, the future poet first saw the beauty of Russian nature, peasant round dances, heard folk songs, met peasant life. These first childhood impressions shaped his views on life. In these places near Moscow he began to write his first poems.

An old house near the parking area for tourist buses.

Another monument to Alexander Pushkin in the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.

In the period from 1805 to 1830, Pushkin often came to Bolshie Vyazemy from his grandmother’s estate. Since there was no church in Zakharovo, the Pushkin family went to services in Bolshie Vyazemy. One of his visits to Zakharovo in 1807 was overshadowed tragic events- younger brother Nikolai died. Nicholas was buried near the fence of the Transfiguration Church on the territory of the estate, on the side of the apses.

The grave of Pushkin's brother Nikolai, who died at the age of six.

There are several more ancient tombstones nearby.

The love story of Alexander Sergeevich for Natalya Goncharova is also connected with Bolshie Vyazemy. It was here, in the estate, at one of the balls organized by Prince Golitsyn, that Pushkin first saw Natalya Nikolaevna Goncharova. The Bolshie Vyazemy estate appears more than once in the works of Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin. It is believed that in the novel “Eugene Onegin” Zakharovo serves as a prototype for the Larins’ estate, and Bolshiye Vyazemy became the basis for the description of Onegin’s estate. Now the Bolshie Vyazemy estate, like the Zakharovo estate, is part of the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin. In the Golitsyn Palace, among the interiors of the 18th-19th centuries. Golitsyn readings “History of the Fatherland” are held. You can get to the estate from the Belorussky train station by train to the stop "Statsiya Golitsyno". Walking distance from the station is about 1 km. You can also get from the station by bus or minibuses. Don’t even think about getting off at the Malye Vyazemy station; you’ll get confused and lost. By car you need to take the Mozhaisk highway. Without entering the village of Vyazemy itself, turn left before the bridge, and after about 200 meters turn right to the parking lot near the Church of the Transfiguration.

After a tour of the estate of grandmother A.S. Pushkin to Zakharovo we went to neighboring Bolshie Vyazemy. This is the former estate of the Golitsyn princes, which remembers Boris Godunov, Marina Mnishek, Kutuzov and Napoleon. A.S. Pushkin also often visited here, visiting the local temple and using the rich library of the Golitsyns.

Museum of Boris Godunov in Bolshie Vyazemy

We arrived just before two o'clock in the afternoon, when the duty tour begins. The inspection began with the restored building of the equestrian yard, which now houses the Boris Godunov Museum.

It was to him, as a royal relative, that these lands were granted in the 16th century. He built a huge wooden tower on the site of the current horse yard and founded the temple in 1598 Life-Giving Trinity, which later became Spaso-Preobrazhensky.

It is surprising that this church, unusual for the Moscow region, has survived from those times. Its belfry is currently under restoration as well as the upper temple with unique frescoes end of the 16th century. We saw copies of them on the second floor of the Boris Godunov Museum.

In addition, there are exhibited archaeological finds, discovered on the site of the former prince’s mansion and costumes for the opera “Boris Godunov”.

Publication from Nina and Natasha, travelers (@shagauru) May 11, 2017 at 1:06 PDT

Here we were told that in time of troubles Marina Mnishek stopped in Vyazemy on her way to her fiancé Dmitry Ivanovich. Here she accepted gifts from him. After her visit, many royal buildings in Vyazemy burned down, including the wooden tower.

Big Vyazemy Estate

From the horse yard we headed to the Transfiguration Cathedral.

As I already said in the story about the Zakharovo estate, brother A.S. was buried near it. Pushkin Nikolai, who died suddenly at the age of six years. You can now enter the upper church only during the Feast of the Transfiguration of the Lord on August 19.
During the time of Peter the Great, Vyazemy was considered a palace estate. In 1694, the emperor donated these possessions to his tutor, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, who also owned the Dubrovitsy estate. Peter the Great visited these places twice while passing through. Bolshie Vyazemy belonged to the Golitsyn family until the revolution of 1917. Great-grandson of Boris Alekseevich Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn after many years military service receives at his disposal a fairly large Vyazema estate. Here he decides to engage in agriculture and arrangement of the estate. First in 1771 and 1772. two stone outbuildings are being built. One housed a kitchen, and the other contained human quarters. Now one of them is under restoration, and the second has just recently been opened to the public.

A garden was laid out between the outbuildings. Later in 1784 on high bank On the upper pond, a strict rectangular stone house with a belvedere was built.

At the same time, a stone fence was erected around the temple, and a park with three radial alleys diverging in different directions was laid out next to the main house.

Linden, elm, larch and pine trees are planted in the manor park.

In addition, Nikolai Mikhailovich is building a greenhouse where apricots, plums and cherries are grown. Bolshiye Vyazemy was Golitsyn’s summer residence; he usually came here in May and left in late autumn. In addition to a well-deserved rest in the village, he tried to constantly expand his knowledge in the field of gardening and vegetable growing, read articles on agricultural cultivation technology different cultures and immediately applied this knowledge in practice. He also tried to improve the life of the local peasants by building them huts with glass windows and heating through a chimney. It was Nikolai Mikhailovich who laid the foundation for the famous library in Bolshie Vyazemy and began collecting paintings and various objects of art, which after the revolution were distributed to museums in our country.

In 1797, Emperor Paul the First and his retinue visited the estate. On the occasion of the visit of the august person to Vyazemy, a sumptuous dinner was held in the state dining room.

Nikolai Mikhailovich had no children, so the estate passed to his brother, and then to his nephews Boris Vladimirovich and Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn. Their mother Natalya Petrovna was an amazing woman for her time and it is believed that it was she who served as the prototype for Pushkin’s famous “Queen of Spades.” Natalya Petrovna was born and lived a lot abroad, was a very educated and prominent lady, one of Catherine the Great’s favorite ladies-in-waiting. She considered the Golitsyn family to be the most noble and eminent and was very proud that she managed to become related to him by getting married. They say that her admiration for the surname was so strong that when she began to praise Jesus Christ to her granddaughter, she asked if the savior was from their Golitsyn family. Natalya Petrovna enjoyed the respect of all emperors and royalty, who congratulated her on all important dates in life and showed her special respect. She was also familiar with European monarchs, some even actively courted her, because in her youth she was extremely beautiful. However, with age, she developed a mustache and beard, and Natalya Petrovna received the nickname “mustachioed princess.” Golitsyna was a very powerful and tough woman, she raised her children in strictness, and her son, the Moscow Governor-General, even in his old age, having grandchildren, did not dare to sit down without his mother’s permission. The princess lived for 93 years and maintained clarity of mind until the end of her life. Her room in the palace in Vyazemy is perhaps the most beautiful.

A.S. Pushkin was familiar with her, and from his friend, Golitsina’s great-nephew, he learned the legend about a combination of three cards that always allowed him to win. This combination was allegedly told to him by Natalya Petrovna. This is how the image of the “Queen of Spades” appeared in the poet’s head.

One of her sons, Boris Vladimirovich, judging by the portraits, was a rare handsome man, participated in the war of 1812 and was seriously wounded at Borodino.

After some time, having never recovered from his wounds, he died, leaving two illegitimate daughters from some gypsy woman. His brother’s wife sheltered the orphans with her, but carefully hid their existence from her mother-in-law, Natalya Petrovna, who certainly would not have approved of her son’s relationship with a woman of dubious origin. After the war of 1812, Bolshie Vyazemy passed to Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn, whose monument can be seen in the estate park.

In addition, there is a memorial sign about the stop of the Russian and French armies in Vyazemy.

After the Battle of Borodino, when our army was moving towards Moscow, Commander-in-Chief M.I. stayed at the estate. Kutuzov. He chose the hall of the foreign library for accommodation. In Vyazemy they provided medical care mortally wounded Bagration. After the Russian army abandoned the estate, the French occupied it. Emperor Napoleon stayed in the same library room on the first floor. Now in the recreated room on one of the walls there are portraits of heroes of the War of 1812.

During our excursion there was a rehearsal in the hall symphony concert, which sounds especially harmonious within the walls of a noble estate. The French did not destroy the estate much, perhaps because Golitsyn was a Freemason, like Napoleon. And among the representatives of this movement there was a certain respect for each other. You can understand that the Golitsyns belong to the Freemasons by the pattern on stove tiles, I didn’t even know that this floral ornament turns out to be one of the Masonic symbols.

A reception area has been recreated in the room in front of the foreign library French Emperor with portraits of his generals.

In each hall of the palace there are many interesting items and very beautiful furniture.

When we go up to the second floor, we already see a lot of stuffed animals on the stairs.

This is due to the fact that the last owner of Vyazem from the Golitsyn family, Dmitry Borisovich, was the head of the royal hunt until the revolution, after which the whole family emigrated. Bolshie Vyazemy suffered the usual fate of the majority noble estates: at first there was a colony for street children, then a sanatorium for party workers, an airfield and a tank school. During the Great Patriotic War, the Germans barely reached Vyazem, and our army set up a hospital in the main building. Only in the middle of the 20th century did they think about creating a Pushkin museum in Bolshiye Vyazemy and Zakharovo.

The restoration of buildings and reconstruction of interiors is still ongoing, but now it is very interesting and beautiful place, associated with many of the biggest names and events in our history. In addition to the main exhibition, the palace exhibits historical costumes, porcelain and lace.

Separate rooms are dedicated to a children's corner, where you can see toys, books and children's entertainment from the pre-revolutionary period.

Downstairs we also toured the exhibition hall wooden sculpture modern author G.Ya. Burkova.

Park and territory of Bolshie Vyazem

After visiting two estates, we were so hungry and tired that we decided to rest a little at a local buffet. But when we left, we saw that the weather had improved and decided to take a short walk around the estate. We approached the ponds. On the other side you can see a bridge on a dam built by Boris Godunov.

Then we headed to the parking lot, taking a farewell look at the majestic and so beautiful Transfiguration Church.