Jean-Paul Gaultier wonderful artist, creating sophisticated, sophisticated models with a slight touch of outrageousness and bright sensuality. At the same time, his work is distinguished by subtle self-irony, a certain hooliganism and artistry, making clothes “from Gaultier” devoid of bourgeois pathos. That is why his models are so in demand among pop and film stars, and his work as a costume designer is incredibly interesting.

Film 1. “Falbalas” by Jacques Becker. Childhood impression.

“I owe it to cinema that I became a fashion designer,” says Jean-Paul Gaultier. The 1944 French film “Falbalas” (we translate it as “Lady Rags”) made a strong impression on young Jean-Paul. “When I was nine or ten years old I first saw “Falbalas,” a film directed by Jacques Becker and starring Micheline Prel.

The film took place in the Marcel Rochat atelier, where they filmed the fashion house where he works main character. This opened up a whole fairy world in front of me. Of course there were my grandmother's corsets, but "Falbalas" was really the trigger. It incredibly accurately describes the world of Parisian couturiers. So when I started working for Cardin and Patou in 1970, I knew I had hit the Falbalas!”

Interestingly, not only was it filmed at the M. Rocha Fashion House, but he was also the costume designer for this film.

Marcel Rocha

Marcel Rochat opened his house in 1924. He was friends with Jean Cocteau and Paul Poiret, and was also an influential designer with a worldwide reputation. His clients included Hollywood stars such as Carole Lombard, Marlene Dietrich and others.

model M. Rocha

For actress Mae West, Marcel Rochat created a black wasp-waisted corset with Chantilly lace. He generally paid great attention women's underwear In the 40s, when thin waists were popular, he introduced into fashion a half-corset that tightened the waist and had garters for stockings. And it was called "guepiere" (translated from French as "wasp").

His name is well known among us thanks to perfumes. He released his first perfume in 1944 as wedding gift for the wife. He simply called them “Femme” (Woman). The Lalique company has developed a bottle in the form of a fragment female figure With thin waist and rounded hips, they say he was inspired by Mae West for this design. The number of perfumes was very limited, because there was a war going on, so they had to wait in line to sign up for them.

obstinate clients,

The work of Jean-Paul Gaultier himself is also distinguished by a certain moment of exaggeration. However, in my opinion, he does it quite interestingly. Later, fate gave Gaultier himself a chance to work as a costume designer in films. Of all the designers who provided their costumes for filming, Jean-Paul, in my opinion, really added bright, important accents to the films, helped to more accurately reveal the characters and the essence of the film itself.

Film 2. 1989 “A COOK, A THIEF, HIS WIFE AND HER LOVER”
PETER GREENWAY. SEXUAL AGGRESSIVENESS.

Jean Paul Gaultier, Peter Greenaway - Party 1993, Theater des Champs Elysees

This is Jean-Paul Gaultier's first film in which he acted as costume designer. Despite the tough plot, the film is very picturesque and incredibly imaginative. It has been called “a masterpiece of triumphant pictorial spectacle.”

This film brought together a wonderful team of excellent professionals: director Peter Greenaway, a man with an unconventional view of the world (by the way, an artist by training), production designer Ben van Os (who doesn’t remember his “Girl with a Pearl Earring”?!), my favorite composer – Michael Nyman (“The Piano”, “The Draftsman’s Contract” and much more). Actors - Michael Gabon (whose face, thanks to “Harry Potter,” is now known to the whole world), Helena Mirren (the wonderful “Queen” by Frears, an actress with Russian roots) and Tim Roth (a subtle, wonderful actor, Tarantino’s favorite, now also known to fans of the series from "Lie to Me") And the costumes played a big role in this film.

The film's motto is "food, sex and death." Gaultier's style, with its sexually aggressive dresses, corsets, tight skirts, high heels fits perfectly into this concept. Greenway loves to structure everything. So in this film, his love for order takes on the image of a food factory: food is prepared in the kitchen, eaten in a restaurant, and thrown away in the toilet. Each of these objects has its own color: green, red and white. The color of the heroes' costumes also changes depending on what room they are in. While the characters walk through the kitchen, their clothes are gray-green, they go into the restaurant hall - it turns black and red, they go to the toilet - black and white. Moreover, this was not done on a computer, but new suits of a different color were sewn.

Well, the final, demonic dress of Helena Mirren accurately and figuratively emphasizes the tension of the scene. The heroine in it looks like a strange bird caught in a net.

Self-citation.

A similar dress, but in a different color, from the couturier collection

Collection 2009 - 2010 and Lady Gaga

Film 3. 1993 “KIKA” by P. ALMODOVAR.
BLOODY GLAMOR

In the kitschy picture of the absurd “Kika,” Gaultier no longer acts as a costume designer, but only as the designer of one star, Victoria Abril. It seems to me that this character is closest in aesthetics to the designer, his artistic self. Other characters were dressed by Gianni Versace.

P. Almodóvar, Victoria Abril and Jean-Paul Gaultier

costume designs for the film

still from the movie "Kika"

This costume from the film is in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Part of the "Cyberpunk" outfit designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier for Victoria Abril in the 1994 film "Kika" directed by Pedro Almodovar. Victoria Abril's character, Andrea "Scarface" Caracortada is shown riding her motorcycle around Madrid wearing futuristic combat clothes such as these with electronically controlled lights and elements.

As for the dresses for Andrea, the host of the Worst of the Day program, the director asked Jean-Paul to imagine that she had just become a victim of a disaster, but at the same time she should look glamorous.

The choice of the range of these dresses is not accidental. There is not only a direct association: red is blood, black is death. Here is the following Spanish traditions with a fierce sexual temperament, the bloodthirstiness of a bullfight, the grace of flamenco.

In this shot, the hem of the dress looks like streams of blood that flood the screen. An effective metaphor conveyed through the costume. “Her costumes reflect the character,” says Almodóvar. Gaultier calls the style “bloody glamour.”

Hair twists with rubber wires,

blood drips onto the shoes in shiny red plastic appliqués.

“It's a reflection of the aesthetics of horror, trash design and post-punk fashion, and the end result is aesthetic violence,” said Almodóvar. The costumes fit perfectly into the style of the film, adding some visual edge and grotesqueness to it.

"It's a reflection of the aesthetics of horror, trash design and post-punk fashion, resulting in aesthetic violence," said Almodóvar. The costumes fit perfectly into the style of the film, adding some visual edge and grotesqueness to it.

Catherine Deneuve in a Gaultier dress

Madonna's famous costume

Film 4. 1995 “CITY OF LOST CHILDREN”
MARC CAROT, JEAN-PIERRE GENET.
FORWARD TO THE PAST

Looking at the characters in the film "City of Lost Children" you feel as if they took it out of an old, dusty chest. magic theater. Dwarfs, giants, identical people, Siamese twins, a talking brain... and children on the other side of it all.

And they are all dressed by Gaultier. “Jean-Paul Gaultier’s greatest talent is that he transfers his personal vision into the universe of the film. Yes!” Caro, one of the film’s directors, said of the designer.

"We both believe in an extreme of beauty that many people would consider strange. That same extreme is present in his fashion shows."

costume sketches, stills from the film "City of Lost Children"

“City of Lost Children” is a very French film, with a special national flavor. Gaultier tried to make costumes in the style of the first French films. “In old French films the image has a very great importance", said the designer. “For example, in the films “L” Argent” (“Money”) by Marcel L’Herbier and “ Les Enfants du Paradis"("Children of Paradise") by Marcel Carné. I saw these films as a child - my mother watched them on TV. They influenced me and my attitude towards fashion. The film "Money" is a kind of "Metropolis". These are all films in style Art Deco.

frame from the movie "Money"

Caro said there is no specific time in the film. It’s clear that it’s not happening now, but you don’t know when exactly,” said Gauthier. “He told me to watch Charlie Chaplin’s films, for example, “ Kid" ("Baby").

Still from the film "Baby"

He wanted the children to look something like this, in the same spirit. In time - somewhere from the beginning of the century to the 40s."

still from the film "City of Lost Children"

“I felt,” Gaultier continued his story, “that elegance was a thing of the past, but I thought it would be cool and modern to put together different eras to create a timeless period."

An authentic sweater of Breton sailors, so popularized by Gautier. In the 18th century, residents of Brittany (a region in northwestern France) sailed to England to sell onions. These merchants wore sweaters that made them recognizable from afar. They were very tightly tied in an unusual way– did not allow water to pass through, resisted wind and cold. The British kept this method of knitting such sweaters a secret. Since they were worn tightly on the body, they were called “the second skin of sailors.”

Jean-Paul himself in his “signature” jumper and couture models from his collections

I love that my costumes in this film are part of the atmosphere. They play a decisive role in the cinema, but they are also made for the cinema, and not as advertisements for Jean-Paul Gaultier."
Apparently, Gaultier was so fascinated by working with children that years later he created a children's collection.

1997 “THE FIFTH ELEMENT” LUK BESSON.
UNISEX OF THE FUTURE

One of the most notable paintings by J.-P. Gautier, this is, of course, The Fifth Element. He designed 954 costumes for this film. ""I wanted the most best designer, and he is Jean-Paul," Besson said. "He feels color, he knows the taste of New York." The space of the film, which takes place in the future, allowed Gaultier to realize all his fantasies in costumes. So, even for the brutal Korben Dallas, played by Bruce Willis, he came up with a suit with a neckline on the back, which is usually a detail of women's dresses.

This film is filled with humor and unexpected turns The plot was so loved by the audience that they can’t stop watching it again and again. But many interesting details remain unnoticed!

Faktrum invites its readers to take a closer look at some scenes.

1. At the beginning of the film, each hieroglyph has 5 lines, and on Lilu’s tattoo there are 6

Is that how it was intended? Movie blooper? We can only guess.

Photo source: Fishki.net

2. “Present” tense is miscalculated.

1914 + 300 = 2214.

3. By the way, March 18 is Luc Besson’s birthday

4. The rabbi, cardinal and priest just relax behind Cornelius

Why bother when they can solve everything for them.

5. Adorable cat rug in Korben's apartment

6. An empty box of Gemini croquettes, the product that sponsored Corben's trip to Floston Paradise

8. Judging by the thick lenses in his glasses, this specialist has serious problems with vision, although he himself can create a person in the laboratory from almost nothing!

Maybe glasses are just part of his style?

9. The Atlas statue from the movie is very similar to the one in Rockefeller Center

10. According to these signs in the movie, McDonald's serves 65 trillion customers.

McDonald's stopped counting the number of customers it served in 1994, three years before the film's release. At that time, the number stopped at 99 billion.

11. Cornelius has a wide variety of religious paraphernalia at home

A man with controversial religious views!

12. During a phone call, Korben touches the Earth garland and Finger starts talking about saving the planet.

Interesting hint...

13. Corben reads the manga "Sanctuary"

14. Zorg Corporation logo on notice of dismissal

It turns out that Corben worked as a taxi driver for the main bad guy.

15. Brooklyn Bridge behind Mr. Kim's flying boat

Corben lived somewhere in Brooklyn.

16. This is a funny Star Wars look!

It's hard to find a person who hasn't watched it at least once in their life cult movie"Fifth Element". Jean Paul Gaultier acted as the costume designer for this picture and designed about 1000 models! The designer is known for his outrageousness, creativity, artistry, as well as elements of subtle self-irony and hooliganism. For the film "The Fifth Element" this is what was required.

So, Milla Jovovich appeared on the screens, tied like a mummy with elastic bands, then the courageous Bruce Willis in a tight orange T-shirt with a cleavage on the back. Gary Oldman, as the villain Zorgan, modeled Hitler and wore striped black and white rubber pajamas. And look no further than Chris Tucker's costumes - the leopard print suit or the suit with roses captivated the audience.

The main character Lilu in the first episodes was dressed in a suit made of white elastic bandages. She later donned a cropped white tank top, gold leggings, an orange suspender-shaped rubber band and combat boots. Lilu's costume perfectly complemented the image of her heroine.

It’s interesting that after the film adaptation of the action movie, many designers, inspired by Lilu’s costume, created similar dresses with bandage elements.

Many people remember Bruce Willis as the masculine Korben Dallas in an orange tank top, but few know that he had a feminine cleavage on his back.

Was originally invited to play the role of the extravagant Ruby Rose American musician Prince. The singer found Gaultier's sketches too feminine and refused the role, but Chris Tucker happily agreed to take part in the filming. And he did the right thing!

tumblr.com, website

The role of the eccentric businessman-tyrant Zorgan in a rubber suit went to Gary Oldman.

The secondary characters also received luxurious costumes. The flight attendants on board the ship appeared in white wigs and blue low-cut uniforms.

And this is what it looked like Opera singer, blue-skinned alien Diva Plavalaguna.

Even the McDonald's workers of the future got their own unique uniform.

While I was writing this text, I wanted to watch the film again, and you?

• Own production. We have been working since 2007.
• The staff employs 25 craftsmen.
• We send 40-50 life-size dolls per month throughout Russia
• Great discounts for wholesalers
• We can sew a doll within 5 days - the fastest time in Russia
• Our dolls always correspond to the agreed layout
• The heads of our dolls are made very conveniently for use.
• All products are made from quality materials and are very easy to clean.
• We use dense foam rubber and polystyrene foam, which helps the dolls have the necessary shapes
• We always have more than 100 dolls in stock - a doll can go to you today
• Our dolls' shoes with polyurethane soles are the only ones in Russia

Delivery:

Delivery throughout Russia. Delivery cost from 1000 rub.

Delivery to other countries is possible. The cost in this case is negotiated individually.

How to make an order:

At first we choose a character, which is a symbol or a talisman, determine the mood and appearance dolls and create a layout or choose a photo that matches the ideas

After this, we sign the contract, terms, issue an invoice

After we sew all the details of the doll and at the last stage we organize a fitting with a photo session and video sequence, where the final edits are provided,

In conclusion We send you a doll, you receive it, and everyone is happy.

How to pay:

1. Cash at the company office.
2. To Sberbank Card
3. By non-cash transfer to the organization's bank account.

To issue an invoice, we need to receive your organization details. VAT is not paid due to the use of a simplified taxation system.

You can obtain additional information by contacting our managers.