The range of fabrics is called selection of fabrics for various purposes produced by the textile industry. The entire range of fabrics is divided into four groups according to the type of fiber: cotton, linen, wool and silk fabrics.

Of the total number of fabrics produced, cotton accounts for 74, linen 6.7, wool 7 and silk 12.3%. According to the five-year plan, by 1970 the production of cotton fabrics will increase by 14, linen by 25, wool by 105, and silk by 30%.

Of the total amount of fabrics produced by the textile industry, fabric market fund are: cotton - 60, linen - 35, wool - 75 and silk - 80%. The bulk of the market stock fabrics are processed by the clothing industry, the rest goes to the retail chain. Every year the amount of fabrics processed by the clothing industry increases. Thus, in 1965, the clothing industry processed fabrics: cotton market stock - 69, linen - 77, wool - 79, silk -40%. In 1970, the clothing industry will process the following fabrics: cotton - 86, linen - 89, wool - 90 and silk - 52%.

All fabrics, consisting of different fibers, are named after the most valuable fiber included in their composition. If, for example, a fabric contains 30% wool and the remaining 70% is cotton and man-made fibres, the fabric is included in the range of woolen fabrics.

The cotton industry is the leading branch of textile production. It produces household fabrics for a wide range of products: outer, underwear and bed linen, dresses, dressing gowns, sundresses, trousers, tunics, special and sportswear, anthers, rubberized raincoats, short coats, padded jackets, etc.

Most cotton fabrics is produced from medium-fiber cotton, but at the same time, fabrics of modern rational structures are created from fine-fiber cotton and from low-grade cotton. In recent years, the range of fabrics with a cotton warp and weft made of viscose and acetate filament threads has greatly expanded, from heterogeneous cotton threads twisted with viscose and acetate threads, mixed fabrics have appeared from cotton and staple viscose, polynose, lavsan and nitron fibers. The addition of viscose staple improves the appearance of the fabric, makes its surface cleaner, and the colors deeper and richer. A variety of fabrics are created from polynosic fibers; in appearance they resemble combed fabrics made from fine-staple cotton. Lavsan fibers increase the strength and elasticity of fabrics, while nitron fibers give them wooliness, which is especially important for clothing fabrics.

Cotton industry It also produces fabrics entirely from chemical fibers: viscose and polynose staple fibers, mixed fabrics from viscose and lavsan, viscose and nitron staple fibers. These fabrics, although produced in cotton mills, are included in the price list for silk fabrics.

The development of the assortment is in the direction of reducing the weight of fabrics by reducing the thickness of the yarn and increasing the specific weight of fabrics made from combed yarn. The range of yarn thicknesses used in the production of cotton fabrics is very large. For particularly thin linen and dress fabrics, combed yarn with a thickness of 6-10 tex (No. 100-170) is used, for semi-thin ones - combed and carded yarn with a thickness of 11.5-15.5 tex (No. 65-85). A wide range of linen and dress fabrics have carded yarn in the warp and weft with a thickness of 15.5-21.0 tex (No. 48-65). For clothes, suits and dress fabrics of increased weight, yarn with a thickness of 25-41.5 tex (No. 24-40) is used. Brushed fabrics are made from hardware yarn with a thickness of 50-200 tex (No. 5-20). The best clothing and costume fabrics are made from twisted yarn with a thickness of 21.0×2; 18.5×2; 15.5×2 tex (No. 48/2; 54/2 and 65/2). The quantitative production of fabrics made from plain and fancy twisted yarn has increased significantly in recent years.

The weight of 1 m 2 of light dress and linen cotton fabrics is 60-100, medium - 110-160, weighted - up to 190, light clothing - 180-200, the heaviest - 300-350 g.

Most cotton fabrics are produced with equal density. Lightweight fabrics for summer dresses have a linear fill of 35-45%. Most dress and linen fabrics are characterized by an average density of 45-55%; in some fabrics of the clothing and costume group the linear filling reaches 70-100%.

Cotton fabrics are produced in a variety of weaves, but plain weave is the most commonly used. In clothing and costume fabrics, twill weave and its derivatives are most often found; a significant group consists of sateen weave fabrics. Fabrics of new structures for women's dresses and partially men's outer shirts with a variety of small-patterned and sometimes large-patterned weaves are becoming increasingly widespread.

Cotton fabrics They are produced bleached, plain-dyed, printed and, less commonly, melange. The diversity of the range of cotton fabrics has increased significantly due to the use of new types of finishes:

A significant improvement in properties is obtained by treating cotton fabrics with indelible finishing agents - thermosetting resins (pre-condensates - a mixture of primary condensation products, soluble in water) and anti-pollution finishes, thanks to which the fabrics retain a clean appearance longer. Dress fabrics with stable embossing and special rigid fabric for collars of men's shirts are produced (a one-sided polyethylene coating is applied to the fabric treated with an anti-shrink solution).

Partial mercerization was further developed, creating an effect on the fabric in the form of gathered and smooth areas. Using this principle, a very interesting type of fabric was obtained, in which shiny stripes printed with metazine followed by mercerization alternate with matte gathered stripes.

For pleated skirts mixed fabrics are produced from cotton and lavsan, subjected to heat treatment to fix the folds.

Cotton raincoat and some clothing fabrics are given water-repellent impregnations by applying hydrophobic compounds (oleic, stearic, naphthenic acids, aluminum, zinc soaps, as well as paraffin-stearic emulsions). Unlike water-insoluble films made from rubber, bitumen or asphalt, the pores of the fabric remain open during these impregnations.

Cotton fabrics endowed with a number of positive properties: they have significant strength, sufficient resistance to repeated stretching and bending. Hygroscopicity imparts good hygienic properties to linen and summer clothes made from cotton fabrics; they quickly get wet, dry quickly, and tolerate washing and ironing well at high temperatures. The abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics is less than that of fabrics made from artificial and synthetic fibers.

Cotton fabrics in most cases they lay well, do not move and are easy to cut, which allows you to make up to 180 sheets in a floor. Cotton fabrics do not fray and rarely move at the seams and, with a soft finish, are not cut through with a needle.

The linen industry of the USSR ranks first in the world in terms of the quantity and quality of fabrics produced. It produces pure linen and semi-linen fabrics, as well as a small amount of fabrics with the addition of staple viscose and lavsan fibers.

Assortment linen fabrics lacks variety. Of the total amount of linen fabrics produced, 40% are container fabrics, 32% are technical fabrics, and only 28% are fabrics for household use. The bulk of household fabrics are made up of various fabrics, used primarily for bed linen. A significantly smaller share is made up of table linen - tablecloths, napkins and towels. Costume and dress fabrics are produced in even smaller quantities. Their range has recently expanded somewhat due to the emergence of linen-lavsan fabrics.

Technical fabrics- coarser, heavier, and highly durable. These include tarpaulin canvas, coarse canvas, beading, etc. The clothing industry makes industrial and special clothing, tents, etc. from these fabrics. Beading is used as cushioning fabric in the manufacture of outerwear.

Compared to cotton linen fabrics are made from thicker single yarn. For coarse linen fabrics for household purposes (canvases, suiting fabrics), combed yarn with a thickness of 83-166 tex (No. 6-12) is used, for semi-coarse yarn with a thickness of 62-83 tex (No. 12-16), fabrics of medium thickness are produced from wet linen yarn spinning with a thickness of 45-55 tex (No. 18-22), semi-thin with a thickness of 33-41 tex (No. 24-30) and the thinnest with a thickness of 18-25 tex (No. 40-55).

Rough and semi-rough linen fabrics have a weight of 1 m2, 200-300, medium - 170-190, thin - 140-160 g.

Linen fabrics are characterized by a square structure, i.e. the yarn is of the same thickness and the density of the warp and weft is the same.

Most linen fabrics has a plain weave, and only fabrics for table linen, towels and some dress fabrics are produced in fine-patterned and large-patterned weaves.

Linen fabrics are produced in gray, semi-white and bleached colors. Plainly dyed and especially variegated fabrics have a very small share.

Linen fabrics shiny, hard and resistant to the touch, they have great strength and very low elongation, they wrinkle quickly and are also quickly smoothed out with an iron. Semi-linen fabrics are more matte and soft, have greater stretch along the cotton base and are less durable.

Linen fabrics easily absorb moisture and wash well. The latter makes them especially valuable for summer clothing, underwear, bed and table linen.

Linen fabrics Due to their hardness and low elongation, they lay well, do not warp or wrinkle, but due to the smooth and somewhat slippery surface they can move when cutting. Linen fabrics are cut with great effort, the knives of cutting machines quickly become dull. Processing them on sewing machines does not cause any difficulties.

Lesson Topic No. 2:“Cotton and linen fabrics.

Properties and application of cotton and linen fabrics."

Purpose of the lesson: To familiarize students with the properties of cotton and linen fabrics and how to determine them.

Lesson type: Combined.

Forms of work: frontal, individual, group. Teaching methods: Explanatory and illustrative, instruction, independent (practical) work.

Health-preserving technologies: Music therapy, physical education

Visual aids:- album on materials science;

Fabric collections;

Instruction cards.

Technical support:

• 
  Computer;
• 
  multimedia projector; screen.

Lesson progress

I. Organizational part

1. Check students’ preparation for the lesson;

2. Mark those absent.

II. Review questions

1. 
   Use of fabrics in everyday life. (Clothes, shoes, upholstered furniture, etc.)
2. 
   What are fibers used to make fabrics from?
3. 
   Give a comparative description of cotton and flax fibers.
4. 
   What is the fabric made of? (made of thin, intertwined threads called yarn)
5. 
   What thread directions do you know?
6. 
   What threads run along the edge?
7. 
   Yarn production. (Tell us briefly about the spinning process)
8. 
   Fabric production. (Tell us briefly about the process of making fabric)

III. Technical details

Properties of cotton and linen fabrics.

Application of cotton and linen fabrics.

Lesson summary (accompanied by presentation)

The properties of fabrics are varied and depend on the properties of the fibers from which they are made, the methods of preparing yarn and fabrics and their finishing.

All properties of fabrics can be divided into physical-mechanical, hygienic and technological.

Physico-mechanical properties determine how the fabric reacts to the action of external forces (strength, wrinkleability, wear resistance, drapability and softness).

- Strength– the ability of the fabric to resist tearing; depends on the strength of the fibers, the structure of the fabric, and the nature of the tear.

- Wrinkleability tissue - this is the ability of a fabric to form folds and wrinkles during compression and pressure on it; depends on the properties of the fibers, the structure of the yarn and fabric, and the nature of the fabric finishing.

The fabric wrinkles slightly if it is made from fibers that have elasticity and elasticity (wool with lavsan). Cotton and linen fibers have weak elasticity, so fabrics made from these fibers wrinkle to a large extent.

- Wear resistance– the ability of the fabric to withstand the effects of friction, stretching, bending, compression, etc.; depends on the strength of the fabric fibers.

- Drapability and the softness of the fabric - its ability to easily change its shape and form soft folds. The fabric is softer if the fiber is thin and the yarn is slightly twisted. Cotton fabrics are mostly soft (chintz, satin, cambric), and linen fabrics are hard (linen).

Hygienic the properties of fabrics are aimed at preserving human health (hygroscopicity, breathability, heat protection, dust holding capacity, etc.).

- Hygroscopicity– this is the property of fabric to absorb moisture and release it into the environment. The most hygroscopic fabrics are those made from natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool and silk).

- Breathability- This is the ability of a fabric to allow air to pass through.

- Thermal protection– the ability of fabric to retain the heat of the human body.

- Dust capacity– the ability of the fabric to retain dust and other contaminants.

Technological properties of fabrics - properties that appear during the manufacturing process of a product, from cutting to WTO (thread fraying, fabric shrinkage, slipping).

- Thread fraying lies in the fact that they are not retained in the fabric along the open cuts of the material, they slip out and crumble, forming a fringe.

High shedding of threads makes it difficult to process the product (cuts of cut parts must be sewn immediately).

- Shrinkage- this is a reduction in the size of the fabric when soaking, washing or wet-heat treatment. Cotton and linen fabrics have significant shrinkage, so they are decated before cutting.

- Slip– can occur when cutting and stitching fabrics and depends on the smoothness of the fabrics and the type of weave.

Application of cotton and linen fabrics

The range of cotton fabrics is very diverse. They are used to sew underwear and bed linen, dresses, dressing gowns, shirts, suits, coats, raincoats, sportswear and special clothing. clothing, drapes, curtains, furniture upholstery, containers and packaging products.

The range of linen fabrics is smaller than cotton. They are used to make bed and table linen, towels, bedspreads, curtains, dresses, men's shirts, as well as container and packaging products.

Cotton and linen fabrics have different properties.

So, linen fabrics are stronger than cotton. They have little stretch in the weft and warp, are rigid and thick. They are hygroscopic and hygienic. They wash well.

Cotton fabrics are soft and durable. They stretch less along the warp, more along the weft. They have good hygienic properties - they are hygroscopic, easy to wash and iron. When washing, they shrink along the warp thread (in length).

Signs for identifying cotton and linen fabrics

Characteristic signs of tissue identification	Fabrics
	cotton	linen
Shine Surface smoothness Uniformity of thread thickness Softness Extensibility Based on Smoothness of threads Type of thread breakage Fiber fineness Fiber crimp	Matte Rough Uniform Small Fluffy In the form of cotton wool Weakly crimped	Brilliant Uneven Small Small In the form of tassels Direct

IV. Laboratory - practical work No. 2

“Determination of the properties of cotton and linen fabrics”

Properties of fabrics	Fabrics
	Cotton	Linen
Physico-mechanical: Strength Wrinkleability Softness (hardness) Drapability	Less durable Crinkleable good	Durable Heavily wrinkled Hard Very small
Hygienic: Hygroscopicity Thermal protection Breathability Dust capacity	High Average High Average	Higher than cotton Average Weak
Technological: Thread fraying Shrinkage	Significant	Average Significant

Work progress:

1. Determination of thread strength. Using a needle, one single thread is removed from each sample, each one is broken and it is determined which one is stronger.

2.Determining the softness of the fabric is done by touch.

3. To determine the wrinkleability of the fabric, each sample is crumpled in the hands and held in this state for about 30 seconds, then straightened and compared.

4. Determination of the fraying of threads in the fabric is carried out with a needle, removing first one thread from the edge of the sample, then two, three, etc., and thus determining from which sample more threads are removed at once. This fabric has greater frayability.

5.Fill out the table, paste the samples.

V. Checking the work performed and assessing its quality.

VI. Homework. Cleaning workplaces.

Despite the abundance of all kinds of synthetic and artificial fabrics, interest in products made from natural fibers does not decrease, but on the contrary, it increases. When choosing materials for summer clothes or bed linen, usually only two options are considered - linen and cotton. These fabrics are natural and have similar properties, but there are also differences. What is the difference and which should you prefer?

Both flax and cotton are obtained from plants that have been cultivated since ancient times. Flax is an annual herbaceous plant with blue flowers up to 60cm high; in the south it grows even higher. The stems are used to make long and strong fiber.

Cotton is similar to cotton wool and covers the seed pods of the cotton plant, a branching plant up to 2 meters high. Cotton is grown in Asia and America; it does not ripen in temperate countries.

Linen yarn can be of different thicknesses and strengths. Thin fibers of combed flax are used to make bed linen, towels, and clothing; tarpaulins, fire hoses, and bag fabrics are made from coarse fibers.

Cotton, its international designation Cotton, produces a more delicate and fine fiber from which cotton fabrics and cotton wool are obtained. The fabric may consist only of cotton fibers or contain admixtures of artificial or natural fibers for strength.

What do linen and cotton fabrics have in common?

The main properties are due to their natural origin:

• Breathability. It is easy to walk in clothes made of linen or cotton in the summer heat; bed linen made from such fabrics allows air to pass through well, does not cause sweating, and is well suited for both winter and summer.
• High hygroscopicity. The ability to absorb moisture well is especially valued when used as bed linen, towels and summer clothing.
• Strength. Both cotton and linen produce durable fibers that produce high-quality fabrics that can withstand heavy loads and last a long time.
• UV protection. Clothing made from natural fabrics protects well from ultraviolet rays in summer, which is especially important in the south.
• Not electrified. Natural materials do not accumulate electrostatic charge during use.

These properties of linen and cotton have made them the most popular and in demand in the manufacture of natural fabrics. Summer clothing and bed linen are the main areas where linen and cotton fabrics have no competition.

Linen fabrics, as well as cotton fabrics without treatment, wrinkle easily. They are treated with special substances to increase their wrinkle resistance. In addition, the addition of synthetic fibers increases their strength.

Caring for cotton and linen fabrics is approximately the same. They can be washed and ironed at high temperatures.

What is the difference between cotton and linen?

Cotton is inferior to linen in strength, but retains heat better. Cotton clothing allows the body to breathe in the summer, but in winter it is also very comfortable, such underwear is warm. Many cotton fabrics are thinner and softer than linen, making them good for children's clothing.

Cotton absorbs moisture better than linen. Cotton terry towels are always the best choice.

Flax has bacteriological properties - neither fungus nor bacteria can live on it. Linen fabric is considered a natural antiseptic. Our ancestors knew this - wounds healed much faster under flax bandages. In linen clothes, unlike cotton ones, unpleasant odors from sweat will not bother you. The reason is due to the antibacterial properties of flax. This smell appears due to bacteria that quickly multiply where there are secretions from the sweat glands.

Flax is considered the most environmentally friendly product. Cotton growing uses a lot of pesticides. Cotton diseases can only be prevented by using chemical treatments. There is conflicting information about how pure the fiber is after processing.

What to choose?

The choice depends on the purpose of the fabric and personal preference. It is important to understand that linen or cotton is only a fiber from which threads are made, and threads are used to make fabrics. There are different types of fabrics. It depends on the thickness, twist, way of weaving these threads, as well as other production technologies. For example, cotton can be used to make a terry bath towel and a thin sheet, soft baby socks and denim. In the old days, the most delicate cambric was made only from flax; now there are cotton and linen cambric. Most often, linen fabrics are produced with plain weave, but there can also be fabrics with jacquard, openwork, and satin.

If you look at the types of natural fabrics that Ellitex fabric store offers, it becomes clear that the price and quality of the fabric must be taken into account when choosing. Other factors are also important, such as color fastness. And if non-natural fibers (lycra, for example) are added to materials based on flax or cotton, the products become more flexible and stretchy, and wrinkle less. Such additives, as a rule, increase the strength of the fabric, but almost do not deteriorate the original properties of the natural material.

For bed linen, it is better to choose purely natural fabric without additives. What clothes are made from is a controversial issue. Either natural, but wrinkled, or with artificial additives and easier to care for. However, fashion is changeable and models often appear on catwalks in outfits that look like they just came out of the washing machine.

Both cotton and linen are always good choices for health and comfort.

They learned to grow flax and process flax fibers several thousand years ago in Ancient Egypt. Skilled craftsmen made the finest canvas through which the body could be seen. The bodies of pharaohs and priests were wrapped in linen bandages soaked in special balms for mummification. The cultivation of flax continued in Ancient Greece, where linen was considered the best and purest of clothes.

Unfortunately, many of the secrets of flax growing are lost today, however, wonderful cambric fabric is obtained from linen threads processed using modern equipment, and fashion designers do not tire of creating more and more linen collections.

Pros

In hot weather, linen fabric creates a feeling of coolness due to its good hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb moisture), the electrification of the fabric is completely eliminated.

In a linen suit or dress, the body breathes.

Linen, especially a fabric of natural color, unbleached, has bactericidal properties - neither bacteria nor fungus linger on it.

Linen fabric is easy to wash, it is smooth and pleasant to the touch.

The strength of linen thread is two times higher than that of cotton and four times higher than that of wool. Linen fabrics can easily withstand repeated washing and temperature loads, which is why linen is considered the most durable of all natural fibers.

Cons

The only drawback of flax is that it wrinkles quickly.

Smooth and airy

During the construction of a cocoon, the silkworm secretes a protein secretion through special glands somewhat similar to salivary glands. That is why natural silk, like wool, is “similar” to human tissue, because our body consists mainly of protein molecules.

Pros

Silk clothing blends with the body like a second skin.

Silk is inferior to wool in its ability to absorb moisture, but superior to cotton and linen.

Silk is indispensable for sophisticated elegant summer clothing. There is probably no other natural fabric with such a beautiful and noble shine.

It has high strength and excellent drapability.

Silk can be used to produce the thinnest and lightest fabrics that glide gently over the skin and do not seem to be in contact with it, which is very important in hot weather; sweat evaporates from the surface of the skin without contacting clothing, naturally.

Cons

High price.

Silk counterfeits are not uncommon, when synthetic threads are added to natural silk threads, which unscrupulous manufacturers hide. The low price of silk fabric should alert the buyer.

"Almost primitive" fabric

If you believe Darwinian scientists, for hundreds of thousands of years the only “clothing” of ancient man was thick hair, or, more simply, wool. Human hair is our first clothing, the same wool, this is a protein substance that is closest and dearest to us.

How to find natural fabric?

Experts advise separating several threads from the main product, twisting them into a flagellum and carefully setting fire to it. >> All natural fibers and viscose burn well. >> When cellulose (cotton, linen, viscose) burns, the smell of burnt paper is felt and a light gray ash remains. >> Silk and wool burn with a flickering flame, and the smell of burnt chicken is felt, the residue is a black fragile ball, easily kneaded in the fingers. >> But the synthetic thread burns and melts, leaving behind a dense sintered lump that cannot be kneaded between your fingers. There may be an unpleasant chemical smell.

If a person experiences discomfort when wearing woolen clothes, most likely it is not the fabric itself that is to blame, but incorrectly selected detergents. Woolen fabric must be washed with special detergents, not those used for washing cotton. If you don't have the right product on hand, use regular shampoo. From a chemical standpoint, there is virtually no difference between your hair and sheep's wool. Some dyes can also cause problems.

At first glance, it’s a little strange to mention wool when talking about summer fabrics. But, according to technologists, it is woolen fabrics that are best suited for summer clothing. Only not shaggy and prickly ones, but special, super-fine, so-called “summer wool.” It is made from the finest and very high quality merino wool. Summer dresses and suits made of such wool are very comfortable, even cool, in any heat.

Pros

Wool has very high hygroscopicity - the ability to absorb and retain large amounts of moisture. Remember the moment when you put a dry woolen blouse in a bowl of water for washing: it instantly absorbs all the water. This will not happen with linen, cotton, or even silk. In summer, hygroscopicity is especially necessary for clothes, because our skin constantly produces sweat, and if the fabric does not absorb it, then the body becomes unpleasantly sticky, clothes literally stick, and dark circles appear under the arms. This will never happen in a dress made of summer wool, in which the body really breathes.

Even by the end of the working day, you will look “sparkling”, because of all natural materials, wool is the most shape-resistant material, that is, it wrinkles the least. Modern technologists have developed environmentally friendly processes (without the use of toxic substances harmful to humans) for the production of woolen fabrics, in particular plasma-chemical treatment, after which they can be washed even repeatedly in a washing machine. These fabrics do not shrink, do not fall off, and retain the original size, shape and structure of the product.

Cons

Low abrasion resistance. Areas exposed to the greatest friction in woolen products are wiped very quickly.

High price. The best raw materials are used to produce summer wool - thin, elite, high-quality merino wool, and certain sophisticated technologies are used.

Coton, he is also a Coton in Africa

Beloved by everyone and the most democratic, it is revered by people of all ages, children and adults, elegant ladies and teenagers. Jeans, T-shirts, sundresses - our favorite summer clothes are mostly made of cotton. Cotton is a plant (cellulose) fiber obtained from cotton bolls. The quality of the fiber very much depends on the variety of this plant, its growing conditions, and agricultural technology. The best cotton grows in hot countries - Egypt, India; it produces very long fibers, from which the finest and highest quality fabric can be obtained.

Pros

Hygroscopic.

The body in cotton clothes breathes.

Durable, but slightly inferior to linen - can be washed many times.

It dyes well, allowing you to obtain countless colors and shades.

Depending on the thickness of the cotton fiber, you can produce the finest fabrics (chiffon, cambric, voile, voile, blouse, shirt fabrics) and denser ones, such as denim, for example.

Cons

It wrinkles a lot, but modern fashion has turned this disadvantage into an advantage.

The textile industry of our country produces a wide variety of fabrics, varying in composition, structure and finishing. Fabrics differ in appearance, properties and require different processing techniques both during sewing and during washing, cleaning and ironing.

Based on their fiber composition, fabrics are divided into four groups: cotton, linen, wool and silk. In turn, each group of fabrics is divided according to purpose into linen, dress, suit, coat, etc. The selection of fabrics according to their fibrous composition or purpose is called assortment fabrics.

Textile fibers of plant origin

Fibers are the raw material for producing yarn from which fabrics are made. By origin, all fibers are divided into natural And chemical. Natural fibers include fibers of plant and animal origin.

Plant fibers - cotton, flax, jute, hemp, kenaf. Cotton and flax fibers are used to produce fabrics that are used to make clothing and linen. Fibers from jute, hemp, flax and kenaf are used for technical purposes.

Cotton obtained from cotton seed bolls (color, table 3). It is a thin, short, soft and fluffy fiber that covers the seeds. These fibers are called seed(raw cotton).

Typically, cotton fibers are white (“white gold”), but in recent years, natural colored cotton has been developed in our country, from which colored fabrics are made.

Uzbekistan is one of the largest cotton producing regions in our country. “White gold” is also grown in other cotton-growing republics, for example in Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan.

Fibers flax located in the bark of the flax plant stem in the form of bunches (color table 3). Such fibers are called bast. The flax stem reaches a length of 70 - 100 cm. Flax fibers are long, thick, straight, and tough. The color of the fibers ranges from light gray to dark. Linen has a characteristic shine because its fibers have a smooth surface.

Flax is grown in Vologda, Ivanovo, Kirov, Kostroma, Leningrad, Yaroslavl and many other regions of the RSFSR, in Ukraine, Belarus, and the Baltic states.

Cotton and flax fibers, after pre-treatment (see diagrams), are supplied to textile factories. There they are used to make yarn and fabric.

Table 16 provides a comparative description of the properties of cotton and flax fibers.

Questions and tasks

1. Tell us what you know about cotton and linen.

2. Which republics grow the most cotton and which flax?

3. What is the primary processing of raw cotton?

4. Tell us about the primary processing of flax?

5. Which factories make yarn from cotton and flax fibers?

Rice. 24. Growth in production of cotton fabrics (million m2)

Types of cotton and linen fabrics

The cotton industry in our country occupies a leading position among other branches of the textile industry. It produces a significant amount of cotton fabrics. This is clearly seen from the production diagram for all types of fabrics (Fig. 23).

The production of cotton fabrics is increasing every year (Fig. 24).

The range of cotton fabrics is very diverse. It mainly includes fabrics for household use, from which various garments are made: underwear, dresses, suits, coats (Table 17) and a small amount of fabrics for technical purposes (container fabrics, shoe fabrics, etc.).

Rice. 25. Growth in production of linen fabrics (million m2)

Linen fabrics produced in our country have long been famous throughout the world. The production of these fabrics is continuously growing (Fig. 25).

The range of linen fabrics is smaller than that of cotton fabrics. Based on their purpose, these fabrics are divided into household and technical. Household fabrics make up 40% of the total linen fabrics. They are used to make table linen, underwear and bed linen, dresses, suits, bedspreads, towels and other products.

Remember the words: seed fibers, bast fibers, assortment of fabrics.

Properties of cotton and linen fabrics

Cotton fabrics They have significant strength, lightness, and softness. They are beautiful, comfortable to wear, create a feeling of warmth, have good hygienic properties - they easily absorb moisture and dry quickly, allow air to pass through well, are easy to wash, clean, iron, and can withstand high temperatures.

Cotton fabrics have a rough matte surface with uniform thread thickness. These fabrics have more stretch in the weft and less stretch in the warp. Cotton fabrics do not fray. Pure cotton fabrics wrinkle but are easy to iron out. They shrink when washed (along the warp thread).

Linen fabrics stronger than cotton. They have little stretch both in the weft and in the warp, are rigid, and have a large weight and thickness. Linen fabrics are hygroscopic - they absorb moisture well, they are also hygienic - they are easy to wash.

Linen fabrics have a smooth surface with a slight silky sheen and uneven thread thickness, cooling the skin, giving the impression of coolness. Fabrics made from pure linen fall off and wrinkle heavily, but are easy to iron.

The textile industry produces not only pure cotton and pure linen fabrics, but also fabrics with the addition of nylon, lavsan and other fibers. Such fabrics have a good appearance, wrinkle little, are resistant to friction, and shrink slightly when washed.

Comparative characteristics of cotton and linen fabrics are given in Table 18.

Laboratory work. Determination of the properties of cotton and linen fabrics

Equipment: one sample each of cotton and linen fabric, dissecting needle, work box, notebook, tables 16 and 18.

Work progress

When determining the properties of fibers and fabrics, compare the data obtained with the tabular ones.

1. Remove one lobar thread from each sample using a dissecting needle and determine which one thicker; break each of the threads and determine which one is stronger; fluff up the torn ends of the threads and examine the appearance of the fibers: shine, fineness and crimp.

2. Take two samples and determine by touch which fabric is softer.

3. Crumple each fabric sample in your hands, hold it in this state for about 30 seconds, then straighten it and determine which fabric crumples stronger.

4. Check crumbling threads in fabrics. To do this, use a dissecting needle to remove one thread from the edge, then two threads together, three together, etc. Determine from which sample more threads are removed at once (this fabric has more fraying).

5. Answer the questions: 1) what physical-mechanical and technological properties of the fabric did you determine in this work? 2) Which fabric is stronger: cotton or linen? 3) What properties influence the choice of fabrics for winter and summer clothes and why are winter clothes not made from linen fabrics?

Definition of cotton and linen fabrics

Knowing the properties of cotton and linen fabrics and the features that characterize their appearance (Table 19), you can easily distinguish these fabrics.

Laboratory work. Definition of cotton and linen fabrics

Equipment: 3 - 4 samples of cotton and linen fabrics, magnifying glass, work box, notebook, table 19.

Work progress

1. Examine fabric samples. Select cotton and linen fabrics, identifying them: a) by appearance (by shine, by the smoothness of the surface of the fabric, by the uniformity of thread thickness) and b) by touch (by softness and stretchability).

2. Check that the tissues are identified correctly. To do this, pull out one warp thread from each sample, examine them through a magnifying glass and determine which one is smooth and which one is fluffy. Break each thread and look at what the break looks like (in the form of a tassel or cotton wool).

3. Write a progress report.

1) Fill out the table:

2) Make a collection of cotton and linen fabrics.

3) Answer the questions: 1) how does cotton fabric differ in appearance from linen fabric? 2) Which fabric is softer? 3) How to identify cotton and linen fabrics by thread breakage?

Linen fabrics

Underwear is divided into men's, women's and children's, and according to the season of wear - into winter, summer and off-season. Underwear is made from linen fabrics: calico, calico, madapolama, satin, chiffon, linen, flannel, cotton wool. These fabrics have good hygienic properties - they absorb moisture well, allow air to pass through, and are resistant to various mechanical influences, especially friction, repeated washing, boiling, and ironing. Cotton and linen fabrics have similar qualities to the greatest extent.

In the process of wearing clothes, the fabric is exposed to light, sun, friction, repeated stretching, bending, compression, moisture, washing, etc. These influences lead to its gradual wear. For example, linen wears out from repeated washing and frequent ironing, and swimwear wears out from exposure to water and sun.

The ability of a fabric to resist these impacts is called wear resistance.

The wear life of items made from cotton and linen fabrics can be increased if you properly care for them: wash, clean, etc. (Table 20)

As you know, a large number of laundries are open in our country, including self-service laundries. They significantly save time and make women's work easier. These laundries are equipped with the latest technical equipment: automatic washing machines, ironing presses, steam-air mannequins. Various modern products are used for washing, bleaching and starching laundry.

In self-service laundries, everyone can wash, dry and iron clothes in a short time. All this is done by machines with little human participation (Fig. 26).

Sewing threads

Sewing threads are used to connect clothing parts. Threads can be cotton, silk, nylon, lavsan, linen.

The process of making threads is complex. It consists of joining several threads (yarn), twisting them on twisting machines, boiling in alkali, bleaching, dyeing, starching (finishing) and rewinding the threads onto spools or bobbins.

Our industry produces threads of the following numbers: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80, 100 and 120. Thread numbers indicate their thickness: the higher the number, the thinner the threads. The length of the thread wound on a reel can be 200, 500 and 1000 m. The color of the threads can be white, black and colored, and the nature of the finish can be harsh, matte and glossy. The characteristics of the threads are given on the spool labels (Fig. 27).

Questions and tasks for reviewing the topic “Cotton and linen fabrics”

1. Name natural plant fibers.

2. What properties of fabrics are considered hygienic?

3. Why are shrinkage and fraying of threads in fabric considered technological properties?

4. What reasons influence the wear of fabrics?

5. Tell us about caring for products made from cotton and linen fabrics.

6. What properties are especially important for linen fabrics?

7. Select cotton fabric from the samples offered to you and tell us by what criteria you identified it.

8. Make a collection of linen fabric samples.

9. Which fabrics, cotton or linen, have the listed properties?