It is for the sake of this rarity - the estate of E.D. Naryshkina in the suburbs of Shatsk, Ryazan region, on one of the clear autumn days we covered more than 400 km one way. And believe me, it was worth it! In my opinion, the estate is as unique as it is amazing.
Its uniqueness lies in the fact that the huge, two-story manor house is built entirely of wood and this example wooden architecture has survived to this day. And this house is surprising, in addition to its impressive size, with a turret that is attached to the left wing of the house, intricate lancet windows, a covered gallery that leads from the main house to a brick beadwork workshop, a two-story balcony-terrace and the remains of external decor.
From the historical side, the estate is also very remarkable - its owner was E.D. Naryshkin, Master of Ceremonies of the Court of His Imperial Majesty, Actual Privy Councilor.

This unusual wooden house greeted us on the banks of the Tsna River.

In the 2nd half of the 17th century, from the Highest command of Peter I, L.K. Naryshkin was given a gift of huge land estates on the territory of the Tambov province. But the fate of this estate is connected with the great-great-grandson of L.K. Naryshkin - Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin. He was born in 1813 in St. Petersburg. In a short period of time, Emmanuel Dmitrievich managed to make a rapid career at the Court. Served as a senior official in the Ministry of Internal Affairs; Master of Ceremonies of the Court of His Imperial Majesty; was an actual Privy Councilor. He was awarded the most honorable and highest Russian order - the Order of St. Apostle Andrew the First-Called.

The death of his first wife coincided with the abolition of serfdom - these two events changed Naryshkin’s life. He leaves the service and settles in the Tambov province. In the Shatsk region, he owned a vast estate, which included 16 villages with a population of 6,190 souls.
In 1873-1875, in the Bykova Gora tract, through the efforts of Emmanuel Dmitrievich, a unique estate complex arose. Here, together with his second wife, a famous lady of state of the Supreme Court, he spent several years of marriage, but continued to maintain close ties and influence in the highest social circles of St. Petersburg.

The estate on Bykova Gora became a kind of summer residence for the Naryshkins. The center of the estate was a spacious two-story manor house - a building with intricate lancet windows, closed passages, medieval turrets and carved balconies, which offered a picturesque view of the floodplain meadows of the Tsna River. All the estate buildings were immersed in the greenery of a shady garden and park, decorated with luxurious flower beds, gazebos and a pond. Overseas peaches and apricots ripened in the greenhouses.

Gallery.

The gallery is decorated with lancet windows and beautiful half-columns.

Now let's go inside the house. Alas, the original interior has not been preserved.

The staircase is clearly of late construction.

Exit to the attic.

By the way, the manor house stands on these stone vaults.

The Naryshkins allocated funds free of charge for the construction of public schools, schools, hospitals, shelters, almshouses, and the maintenance of scholarship holders. They built the first building in the country for the Society folk readings, the first shelter in Russia for imprisoned children was opened. The Naryshkins established a school for peasant children and a hospital on the estate. They organized a network of small factories: a sawmill, a tar factory, a distillery and a glass factory. There was also a brisk walk in the estate social life. Dinner parties and festive evenings were held, which were attended by the cream of Russian society of that time. In September 1886, the estate was honored with a visit by high-ranking persons: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elisaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov.

Now, for some unknown reason, it is in the ownership of the Church. What do the cross on the tower of the house and the gate with a prohibitory sign indicate, plus signs that this place belongs to a local monastery?

Next to the main house there is a small manor hut. Perhaps this is a separately equipped outbuilding next to the manor house, where an embroidery workshop, famous throughout Russia, operated under the leadership of the lady herself - where, among other things, the traditions of Russian beadwork, which was experiencing its “golden age” at that time, were cultivated.

Subsequently, he was placed on the estate on Bykova Gora pioneer camp, then - a tuberculosis dispensary.

Now this place evokes more horror, especially for those who approach from the west through the old linden forest. From the wilds of oaks and maples that can be found here and there, the traveler will see a wooden building, and coming closer, he may be surprised, and why not die. The ancient manor, entirely made of wood, was overgrown, warped and frozen: the icon on the end speaks of the holiness of the place, here even part of the text is read “... he was a saint. Rus' did not preserve, the Lord preserved,” and if you wish, it is possible to get inside - the floors are shaking, but the staircase to the second floor is still quite wow.

Legends still circulate about Bull Mountain today. Some old-timers associate the name with the name of the local manager, Bykov, while others believe that the name of the place was given by a farm where bulls were fattened. In fact, where Vysha merges with Tsna there is a hillock that from a distance resembles the hump of a bull - hence the name. The fate of Bykovaya Gora is in a special way connected with the great-great-grandson of Peter the Great’s uncle, Emmanuel Dmitrievich Naryshkin. In the second half of the 17th century the highest command Peter I Lev Kirillovich Naryshkin was given the lands of the Tambov province as a gift. The episode when Bykova Gora became the estate of Emmanuel Naryshkin was preceded by various events. So, Emmanuel Dmitrievich was born in St. Petersburg on June 30, 1813. He received his education abroad. He married Ekaterina Novosiltsova, the daughter of an actual Privy Councilor. Emmanuil Dmitrievich's career progressed rapidly. At court, he served as a senior official in the Ministry of Internal Affairs, then as master of ceremonies at the Court of His Imperial Majesty. His merits were noted by all orders without exception. Russian Empire, including the most honorable and highest - the Order of St. Andrew the First-Called.

Naryshkin's childless marriage was ended by the premature death of his wife. The death of his wife coincided with the abolition of serfdom - these two events radically changed Naryshkin's life. He left the service and settled in the Tambov province. In the Shatsk region, he owned a huge territory, which included villages along the Tsna River - from Polny Konobeev to Aglomazovo, in total 16 villages and three villages with a population of 6190 souls, not counting women and children. Not wanting to embarrass the peasants with resettlement, Naryshkin left them almost a third of his lands, and transferred the well-maintained family estate with an administrative center in the village of Polnoye Konobeevo with a population of 1,300 residents, which had a volost government and a market, to a new location - in the Bykova Gora tract. There is a mention of Bull Mountain in the book by Pyotr Petrovich Semyonov Tien-Shansky “A Complete Geographical Description of Our Fatherland.” Famous traveler wrote that Naryshkin, even before the liberation of the peasants from serfdom, was a rare type of enlightened landowner, “who cared for the welfare of his peasants in a fatherly manner,” and he left a good memory of himself with his donations.

Emmanuel Dmitrievich desired solitude, for which Bykova Mountain was ideally suited. Through his efforts, a unique estate complex arose here. Soon Naryshkin married again. His chosen one was sister famous lawyer and philosopher, professor at Moscow University Boris Chicherin - Alexandra Nikolaevna. Emmanuil Dmitrievich spent several years in happy marriage, and the estate on Bykovaya Mountain became a kind of summer residence of the Naryshkins. The center of the estate was a spacious two-story manor house - a building with intricate lancet windows, closed passages, medieval turrets and carved balconies, which offered a picturesque view of the floodplain meadows of the Tsna River. In one of the halls of the manor’s house there was an extensive library, where hundreds of volumes of priceless books were stored and read, periodicals in Russian and foreign languages. Trying to preserve the good memory of his first wife, Naryshkin built a miniature wooden church in the original Russian and strict Orthodox style, in honor of the Holy Great Martyr Catherine, the heavenly patroness of his first wife. According to the recollections of contemporaries, it was “small in size”, had “beautiful architecture on the outside and splendid decoration on the inside, an oak carved iconostasis, elegant drawings of icons of high artistic work.”

All the estate buildings were immersed in the greenery of a shady garden and park, decorated with luxurious flower beds, gazebos and a pond. Overseas peaches and apricots ripened in the greenhouses. The entire estate was kept in exemplary condition. Despite the fact that Bykova Gora was located far from the city noise, social life was quite lively there - dinner parties were held. A frequent guest on Bykova Hill was the Minister of the Court, Count Illarion Vorontsov-Dashkov and his family. Distinguished guests from the Romanov family also visited the estate. Naryshkin’s wife also glorified the estate throughout Russia by organizing an embroidery workshop next to the manor’s house. Here, girls embroiderers also wove beads; their work was generously paid, because they came to work several kilometers from the surrounding villages. The girls were crafting wedding dresses, carpets, lace for decorating scarves and linen. The Naryshkins established a school for peasant children and a hospital on the estate. Emmanuel Dmitrievich organized a whole network of factories on Bykovaya Gora - a sawmill, a tar factory, a distillery and a glass factory, so that the population was always with money and in business. And the proceeds from the factories went to charity. Thus, not far from Bykova Gora, the Church of Sergius of Radonezh, erected at Naryshkin’s expense, not far from Bykova Gora in a village that was later renamed Emmanuilovka in his honor, has been preserved and is still in operation to this day.

The Naryshkins also helped the Vyshenskaya Hermitage, allocating funds free of charge for the construction of public schools, schools, hospitals, shelters, almshouses, and the maintenance of scholarship holders. Thus, at the expense of Emmanuel Dmitrievich, in memory of his first wife, the Catherine Teachers’ Institute, the provincial public library"Naryshkin reading room" local history museum in Tambov. The country's first building for the People's Reading Society was built, and Russia's first shelter for imprisoned children was opened. Emmanuel Dmitrievich made donations (about 700 thousand rubles) for public education in the Tambov province and more than 300 thousand rubles for a new building religious school in Shatsk. He died on December 31, 1901 in St. Petersburg. In Tambov, admirers arranged a funeral arch with the inscription: “To the Enlightener of the People, Grateful Tambov,” near which a litiya was performed. Naryshkin was buried in the Kazan Monastery, in a specially prepared crypt.

Naryshkin’s business was continued by his wife, who became the last mistress of Bykova Mountain. Having lost her husband, Alexandra Naryshkina came here in the summer and autumn. She lived alone, surrounded by servants, but did not tolerate peace. The Naryshkinsky forest from Vyshi to Shatsk was transformed during Naryshkina’s time: she patronized folk arts and crafts, monitored the work of the Folk Readings Society, and maintained a shelter for imprisoned children. In 1913, the Diocesan Women's School was opened in Shatsk, Alexandra Nikolaevna supplied the poor pupils with galoshes and boots, and sent two cows to the school from Bykovaya Gora. With Naryshkina’s funds, a church school is being built in Emmanuilovka and Zhelanny. She donates to the Vyshinskaya Hermitage and even wants to set up a hospital there. Alexandra Nikolaevna’s life was interrupted in 1919 in Tambov at the hands of the Bolsheviks. All her property was nationalized. Subsequently, a pioneer camp was located on the estate on Bykovaya Gora, then a tuberculosis dispensary. Resources have been exhausted, and the mutilated estate is, by the way, a monument historical significance, - “due to the dilapidation of the buildings” they threw it at the “balance of nature.” Empty and lost former greatness a manor's house, a magnificent park was overgrown, a unique library was used to light the stove. In the early nineties of the last century, nuns began to move to the hermitage from the Holy Dormition Vyshensky Monastery. And by 2004, Bykova Gora became his farmstead.

Nowadays, getting to Bykova Mountain is not so easy. On the maps (which last time ruled in the eighties and since then they have been reprinted only by changing the year of publication and they are also uploaded to GPS navigators) Bykova Gora has a signature - non-residential. You can get there along the M5 highway from Moscow towards Shatsk, then to Konobeev, then turn to Vysha, and, before reaching the last one, turn left along the asphalt.

There are amazing places in the Ryazan region where folk, or rather, tourist trails have long been trodden. Famous museums, estates and nature reserves, where at any moment they are ready to receive guests, tell and show, and at the same time give them food and drink... However, there are many more places in our region where narrow, untrodden paths lead. But that doesn’t make them, these places, any less amazing.

It is a pity, of course, that those objects where it is not customary to take tourists often appear to random guests in an unsightly, and sometimes even dilapidated, state. But the appearance of ancient temples and abandoned estates is still fascinating. And how many secrets and mysteries they keep within their walls!

This article is a kind of “guide” for those who are in one of the free days wants to discover little-known places in the Ryazan region, get unforgettable emotions and unique photographs. And she helped us compose it Ksenia Panacheva, author of the tourist and educational project “I’ll show you!”

Shatsky district. Wooden estate of the Naryshkins

In the place where the Vysha River in the Shatsk region merges with the Tsna, in the area of ​​​​the village of Nikolaevka, there is a hillock that from a distance resembles a bull’s hump, hence the name of the place - Bykova Gora. Here, on the banks of the Tsna, stands the unique estate of the Naryshkins. A huge two-story manor house, built entirely of wood.

Everything about this intricate example of wooden architecture is interesting: the turret attached to the left wing of the house, the intricate lancet windows, and the covered gallery leading from the main house to the brick workshop, where beadwork was once practiced...

The owner of the estate was Emmanuel Naryshkin, master of ceremonies of the Court of His Imperial Majesty, actual Privy Councilor. Once upon a time there was a lively social life here: dinner parties and festive evenings were held. In September 1886, the estate was honored with a visit by high-ranking persons: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elisaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov...

IN Soviet years A pioneer camp was located on the estate on Bykova Gora, then a tuberculosis dispensary. Currently, the estate is owned by the church, but in fact it is abandoned.

Tuma. Church with unique frescoes

The urban-type settlement of Tuma, Klepikovsky district, is a seemingly unremarkable village that you pass through when traveling from Ryazan to Kasimov. Meanwhile, there is one attraction that you should definitely see - the Trinity Church. The stone church was built in 1841 at the expense of parishioners, and the paintings inside were completely completed in 1910.

These paintings make the temple unique. We're talking about unique frescoes, made according to sketches by Russian masters of the 19th century: Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Ivanov and others. On the walls you can see the paintings “The Appearance of Christ to the People”, “Christ in Rus'”, “Christ in the House of Martha and Mary” and others. Some frescoes exactly repeat the design of the Vladimir Cathedral in Kyiv.

In addition, the temple has preserved a unique two-tier iconostasis made of Italian white marble and wood sculpture Christ - these were formerly common in the Russian North.

The temple is also striking in its height, which is atypical for a small village: the bell tower raises the cross to about 80 meters.

In the late 1920s, Trinity Church, like many others, was closed. Perhaps it would have been demolished, but the so-called “Tuma riot” began among local residents, during which they managed to protect the temple from destruction and ruin. It is currently in effect. Father Mikhail, who serves here, welcomes guests with great pleasure and is ready to talk for hours about this unique place.

Shilovo. Drunken forest and haunted manor

On the outskirts of the Shilovsky district, in a forest area not far from the village of Tarnovo, there is an unusual forest that many have heard about. The pines here unanimously bend the lower part of the trunk in one direction, as if frozen in a single impulse of dance. There are many versions of this anomaly: people also sin incredible strength hurricane, and on the machinations evil spirits. Most convincing scientific hypothesis. In the late 70s, when the trees were planted, the weather was abnormally wet for several years in a row: rainy summers alternated snowy winter. The area of ​​sandy soil simply “slid” slowly, and along with the soil, young pines also leaned to the west, bending their trunks. Around 1980, the process stopped, and the pines reached their tops towards the sun. But this, we repeat, is just one version that does not explain some mystical things. They say, for example, that technology and electronics behave unpredictably in the Drunken Forest.

If you are afraid to go to the Drunken Forest alone, contact the Zaryana ethnocultural center in Shilov. Here they can tell you a lot of interesting things about local ancient folk customs. For example, about the ritual of baking a child. Did you know that fairy tales about Baba Yaga, who puts a little boy on a shovel and sends her to the oven, have a real background? In the old days, if a child was born sick and weak, the stove was heated in the house, and when it cooled to an acceptable temperature, the child was placed there. The baby warmed up, after which many ailments actually subsided. So it turns out that fabulous Baba Yaga- in fact, the healer who treated the child...

Director of the Zaryana ethnocenter Andrey Gavrilov will not only help organize an excursion to the Drunken Forest, but will also show a haunted manor in the village of Lunino, not far from Shilov. Locals they claim that there is no, no, near the massive house with columns, and a mysterious girl in white will flash. Legend has it that the daughter of the last manager of this estate fell in love with the groom, but her parents did not allow the couple to seal the union, and she hanged herself in one of the halls on the second floor. Perhaps you will be “lucky” to see her ghost, which has become another Shilov attraction.

P.S. To be continued...

In 1873 - 1875 in the Shatsky district in the Bykova Gora tract, a unique estate complex of E.D. was built. Naryshkina.

Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin is the great-grandson of L.K. Naryshkin (state councilor).

Emmanuel Dmitrievich quickly moved up the ranks and made a rapid career for himself in the Ministry of Internal Affairs and was a Privy Councilor. He owned a lot of land not only in the Ryazan region. In the Shatsk region he owned an estate, which consisted of 16 villages and 6,190 people.

Here Naryshkin spent several years of his life with his second wife.

The center of the Emmanuilovka estate was a luxurious two-story manor house. Carved balconies, lancet windows, medieval turrets - everything speaks of the wealth of the Naryshkin family. Of course, there was a park with flower beds, flower beds and gazebos. In a word, everything was surrounded by greenery. There was quite a lot going on here active life and the whole flower of Russian society of that time was invited here.

In 1886, the Bykova Gora estate was visited by high-ranking guests: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elizaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov.

In the outbuilding next to the manor house there was an embroidery workshop that became famous throughout Russia.

A school for peasant children and a hospital were also opened on the estate. And a whole network of factories: glass, sawmill, tar, distillery.

They donated money for the construction of schools, hospitals, shelters, and almshouses. They built the country's first building for the Public Reading Society and the first shelter for imprisoned children.

After Naryshkin owned the Bykova Gora estate, a pioneer camp was created here, and then a tuberculosis dispensary. Today the estate is in a dilapidated state...

In the Shatsky district, in the forest hinterland, from the end XIX century there was a unique noble estate Bykova Gora, which belonged to a large landowner - Chief Chamberlain of the Imperial Court, Emmanuel Dmitrievich Naryshkin. His vast Shatsk estate included 16 villages and 3 hamlets with a population of 6,190 souls, not counting women and children, located along the left bank of the Tsna from Polny Konobeev to Aglomazov.

Emmanuil Dmitrievich was born on July 30, 1813 in St. Petersburg. He received his education abroad. Since 1833, he studied with the poet Mikhail Lermontov at the school of guards ensigns and cavalry cadets.

His first wife, Ekaterina Novosiltseva, died in 1869. Emmanuil Dmitrievich deeply experienced this loss and, in memory of his wife, founded the Catherine Teachers' Institute in Tambov in 1870. In 1872, he married Alexandra Chicherina, who became his associate and then his successor. charitable activities in the field of education and culture. Thanks to high position in society she received the title of state lady of the imperial court.

EXAMPLE FARMING

After the abolition of serfdom, the Naryshkins retired from the noisy life of the capital, withdrew from economic affairs and, not wanting to embarrass the peasants with their presence, moved their summer residence from crowded Konobeev to a quiet place - on Bykova Gora.

The Naryshkin estate was famous throughout the area. The manor house and other buildings were drowned in the emerald greenery of the park. The two-story log building, topped with an elegant turret, was decorated with wooden carvings. The wide balconies opened amazing view to the old woman Tsny. The main building was connected by an arched gallery with a brick outbuilding. There was an orchard nearby.

Despite the fact that Bykova Gora was located far from the city noise, social life was quite lively there. Dinner parties and festive evenings were held, which were attended by the cream of Russian society of that time. A frequent guest on Bykova Gora was the Minister of the Court, Count I.I. Vorontsov-Dashkov with his family and other high-ranking persons. There is no doubt that these evenings were held at the highest level.

In September 1886, the estate on Bykova Gora was honored with a visit by high-ranking persons: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elisaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov. The Naryshkins gave them a solemn reception with a tour of the estate, local attractions, and a visit to the festive service in the estate church of the Great Martyr. Catherine.

The Bykova Gora estate was an exemplary farm: a sawmill operated here, and in a separate outbuilding there was a workshop in which carpets were produced, lace was woven, and embroidery was created. Girls from surrounding villages worked in the workshop, and the lady herself, Alexandra Nikolaevna Naryshkina, taught them the craft. Fine lace, beadwork and other products from the workshop from Bykova Gora were famous in many parts of Russia, including in St. Petersburg: at exhibitions handicrafts they received gold medals.

The Naryshkinskaya estate was served by 30 people. Here local peasants plowed the land not on horses, but on oxen, since the lady believed that work should not be a burden, but a joy. The bulls were slow and did not allow the peasants to sweat themselves out. Usually they finished plowing at three o'clock in the afternoon. We had lunch in the common dining room. Each farmer was allocated 600 grams of meat per day. They also gave us fruit from the master's garden for lunch. Often there was food left over, and then it was carried home...

On December 31, 1901, Chief Chamberlain Emmanuel Naryshkin died in St. Petersburg and was buried with honors in Tambov. In memory of him, one of the Shatsk villages is called Emmanuilovka.

After the death of her husband, Alexandra Nikolaevna Naryshkina became the full-fledged mistress of the estate on Bykova Gora. In one of the outbuildings she opened workshops where she taught local women handicrafts. The owner of Bykova Gora, with the assistance of the Shatsk zemstvo, organized at St. Nicholas-Cherneevsky convent a craft school for local peasant women, where she taught them weaving, lace-making, carpet and felt crafts. On her estate on Bykova Gora, she organized treatment for peasants.

TRAGIC FATE

When fiery revolutionaries came to power, the Shamorgsky volost committee requisitioned the meadows on the Naryshkins’ estate, the entire estate with outbuildings, as well as rye and wheat. The fate of Alexandra Naryshkina was also tragic. She was arrested and sent to Tambov.

manor house on Bykova Gora completely divided tragic fate their owners. First, the new authorities set up a hospital here, which soon became subordinate to the Shatsk district health department. Local authorities They decided to use the wonderful air of these places to treat patients with tuberculosis, and a tuberculosis hospital was located within the walls of the manor’s house. In 1988, when the building fell into disrepair, the tuberculosis hospital was closed, and the estate was abandoned, as they say, to the balance of nature. It was supposed to be arranged in former estate on Bykovaya Gora there was an inter-farm or trade union dispensary, but during the years of all sorts of restructuring and reforms the authorities had no time for real business.